Thursday, May 18, 2006

Oh the Sandwiches!


When in London, I can never say no to the simple prawn sandwiches. Suddenly I'm giddy over the iceberg lettuce, sliced sandwich bread, and the variations in mayo. I make it a point to try as many varieties as possible.

I experienced a version of this classic at a great little Fleet Street-meets-Halls of Justice joint called El Vino featuring prawns in a sweet chilli mayonnaise with iceberg lettuce on fresh seedy granary bread. The Tate Modern Café 2 serves theirs with lemon zest. I noticed the mayonnaise is a bit thinner in consistency than here in the States – not at all stiff or globby. Then my pal Ralph told me that it most likely is not just mayo, but a traditional sauce called Mary Rose sauce.

Mayo or Mary Rose aside, I find these little delights just divine.

(Photo by Brett Cody Rogers)

Wednesday, May 17, 2006

Fish & Chips at The Approach Tavern:
I Have Arrived


You know you've finally landed in London after your first meal of fish and chips in a pub.

What arrives at your table is a gorgeously puffy piece of cod in a substantial batter, golden fried to perfection with the proper balance of grease and salt; thick wedges of chips and a subtley sweet puree of mushy peas.

My half pint of choice is the Belgian ale, Leffe -- pronunciation of the last "e" is questionable.

(Photo by Brett Cody Rogers)

Restaurant Review HAIKU
St. JOHN Bar & Restaurant
East London

haute brute fare at this
"nose-to-tail" establishment,
meat not for the meek

More Reviews: London-Eating, Time Out London

St. JOHN Bar & Restaurant
26 St. John Street
London UK EC1M 4AY
020 7251 0848

Monday, May 15, 2006

When in London ...
Must Have Mutton


OK, ok ... before I get lambasted by my Londoner pals whose tables would be graced by nothing but the finest, most tender spring lamb, let me correct myself:

When in London, one must have the succulent lamb.

Mutton, of course, is the flesh of an adult sheep that can be tough at times. I've also been told that in slang terms, mutton (as in "mutton dressed as lamb") is a woman past her prime who sadly dons the trendiest wear for twentysomethings from TopShop, H&M, and the like. Mutton is second only to my favorite bit of new slang learned so far on the trip: Chav. A Chav is defined as someone sporting "white trainers and fake Burberry." It follows in the line of naff.

Needless to say there were neither chavs nor muttons present Sunday evening at the Barbican where Charles Kassouf and Katie Barry prepared a gorgeous leg of lamb to serve as our Sunday roast. Nothing could be more delicious or fitting for our springtime visit to England.

THE MENU
Roasted Spring Lamb
Sauteed Savoy Cabbbage
Roasted New Potatoes With Herbes de Provence
Roasted Butternut Squash Rubbed With Harissa
Cannelli Bean and Bell Pepper Salad
Freshly Baked Pita Bread

+RECIPE
The Kassoufian Method for Succulent Spring Lamb

Score the leg of lamb and rub in 1/4 cup olive oil, 3 cloves of minced garlic and minced fresh rosemary. Broil in oven on high heat, 200 C (450 F), until the top flesh carmelizes nicely with the embedded herbs. Turn the heat down to 170 C (300 F) and roast "slow and low" for approximately 1-1/2 hours. When it's done, the lamb should reach an internal temperature of 140 C.

+RECIPE
Charles' Homemade Pita Bread

(Adapted from The Joy of Cooking)

Combine in large bowl (or bowl of heavy duty mixer):
3 cups bread flour
1-1/2 tablespoons sugar
1-1/2 teaspoons salt
4 teaspoons active dry yeast
Add:
2 tablespoons olive oil
1-1/4 cups room-temperature water

Mix by hand or on low speed for about 1 minute to blend all ingredients. Knead for about 10 minutes by hand (or with dough hook on slow to medium speed) until the dough is smooth, soft, and elastic. Add flour or water as needed; the dough should be slightly tacky, but not sticky.

Transfer the dough to an oiled bowl and toss it once to coat. Cover with plastic wrap and allow to rise at room temperature until doubled in volume, 1 to 1-1/2 hours.

Punch the dough down, divide equally into 8 pieces, and roll the pieces into balls. Cover and let rest for 20 minutes. Preheat the oven to 450 degrees F. If you do not have a pizza or baking stone, place baking sheet upside down on an oven rack to serve as hearth.

On a very lightly floured surface, roll out each ball of dough into a thin round, about 8 inches in diameter and 1/8 inch thick. Spray the stone or baking sheet with a mist of water, wait 30 seconds, then place as many dough rounds as will fit without touching directly onto the hearth.

Bake until the dough puffs into a balloon, about 3 minutes, wait 30 seconds, then remove each bread to a rack to cool. If you leave the breads in the oven too long, they will not deflate to flat disks.

Thursday, May 11, 2006

Restaurant Review HAIKU:
Blossom
Downtown LA, CA

a pho so simple
clearest broth, silken veggies
heart stops tastebuds weep

More Reviews: Daily Candy

Blossom
426 S. Main Street
Los Angeles, CA 90013
(213) 623-1973

Wednesday, May 10, 2006

My Favorite Mycologist



Gary Wolf uncovers the obscure and grotesque rush of the
morel mushroom trade, in the New York Times Style Magazine's
Living Spring 2006 special issue.

Tuesday, April 18, 2006

Easter Spring Fever

This year, the idea of making a variety of green-colored dishes for our Easter table was downright thrilling to me.

After two farmers market visits, five grocery store stops, a 40-minute crosstown trek to a European specialty food shop and three flower shops, I was finally armed with the elements needed to realize my master Easter dinner plan.

Through careful consultation, I crafted a menu from my fave cookbooks. Thomas Keller came out on top with 3 dishes compared to Mario's 2 and Daniel Boulud's 1.

Big lesson learned: Fava Beans, though exquisitely seaonsal, are definitely NOT WORTH IT as an ingredient in a dish prepared under a major time crunch. (Sous-chef hubby Brett Cody Rogers will attest to this.)

THE MENU
Asparagus with a Citrus Gremolata
, MARIO BATALI
Artichoke and Fava Bean Stew, MARIO BATALI
Potato Gratin, DANIEL BOULUD
Peas and Morels with Onion Confit, THOMAS KELLER
Cauliflower a la Grecque, THOMAS KELLER
Bibb Lettuce Salad with Herbs, THOMAS KELLER
Ham, spiral-cut from Whole Foods
Kielbasa, homemade from J&T European Food in Santa Monica, CA

Friday, March 17, 2006

St. Patty's Rerun

Here's a story about the classic New England Boiled Dinner that graces our tables on St. Patrick's Day, titled "Savoring Irish Legacy." It appeared in the before-its-time food blog, Fillet.com, circa 1997. (At the time, we didn't even know it was a blog.) Fillet.com was a side project founded by my then-colleague, the multitalented Adam Powell. It was featured in HotWired.com's Test Patterns section -- a playground where Wiredlings could launch their own passions or quirky ideas into sitelets.

Make sure to check out the great stories on Fillet.com penned by cyberfoodies of yesteryear.

RECIPES for Irish Soda Bread, Corned Beef and Cabbage within.

Restaurant Review HAIKU:
Blair's
Silverlake, CA

sparse, low candlelight
sharp persnickety sauces
ambitous mood food

More Reviews: CitySearch.com, LA Times, LA Weekly

Blair's Restaurant
2903 Rowena Avenue
Los Angeles, CA 90039
(323) 660-1882

Wednesday, March 15, 2006

3.15.06: Wednesday Round-Up

This week's Dining section picks according to me!

New York Times
+ Winter Squash gets special treatment
+RECIPES: Masala Winter Squash, Roasted Winter Squash With Seared Cod, Winter Squash and Pork Stir-Fry.

+ Lowcountry Cuisine: Charleston, South Carolina A great city with a cuisine of its own and a growing restaurant culture.
+ LISTING: Restaurants to visit in Chaleston, SC.
+ RECIPE: Shrimp and Okra Beignets with Salsa and Cilantro-Lime Sour Cream. Scrumptiously southern.
+ RECIPE: Fried Green Tomatoes and Shrimp Rémoulade .

Los Angeles Times
+ The Sichuan Peppercorn Returns It's no longer banned and ready for action.
+ RECIPE: Charcoal-grilled Sichuan Beef With Cilantro-Shallot Sauce.
+ RECIPE: Cold Chicken Slices With Sesame and Sichuan Pepper.
+ RECIPE: Honey-lacquered Squab With Gingered Nappa Cabbage and Fennel-Pear Purée.

San Francisco Chronicle
+ Odd take on St. Pat's, but I'm game. RECIPE: Wasabi Pea-Crusted Chicken Thighs
+ The Tipperary Cocktail tells a tale from 1916.

The Salt Spectrum


At a recent outing in Eagle Rock, we experienced a unique appetizer at the fine veggie restaurant, Fatty's. The dish was Roasted Name Root with three Artisinal Salts for dipping. Part of me scoffed at ordering a $9 appetizer that's basically salt and a starchy vehicle, but the curious salt lover in me said what the hell.

An artful arrangement of transculent pink, smokey grey and pristine white salt crystals arrived at our table plated in little piles with starchy cubes that could have passed for home fries. A printed piece of paper with a list of the salt varieties came with:
"Pink: Hawaii's Alaea Clay Salt
White: Japan's Jewel of the Sea
Grey: Denmark's Viking Smoked Sea Salt"

The taste variations were definitely detectable from nutty to floral to smokey, but the dish itself had more of a novelty factor than anything else. It's clear the best uses for these sublime salt options are to finish a simple dish, such as Crudites or Roasted Veggies.

If you are looking to expand your salt collection beyond Morton's and into the realm of color, there are many options at local grocers and specialty food shops. My local epicurean shop carries 12 different varieties of salt including a dark pink Hawaiian Clay Salt and a lighter rose-hued Himalayan. Williams Sonoma offers a collection of six Finishing Salts for $29.

Note: Love salt and you're a history buff? Then you have to pick up Mark Kurlansky's fascinating retelling of world history through the eyes of Salt.

Friday, March 10, 2006

Brewed by the Sea


Behold, the Avocado Honey Blonde.

This elixir is the brainchild of the crafty kids at Island Brewing Company microbrewery in Carpinteria, CA – an idyllic little coastal town nestled between the rising slopes of the Santa Ynez Mountains and the rolling Pacific surf. Here is where the lucky arrive to sip some mighty brews in a chill setting.

But wait, did you just put your mushy avocado in my beer?
Not quite.

The honey in the Avocado Honey Blonde Ale recipe comes from bees who got busy in an avocado grove. The essence is in there, even if the taste is not. To me, this equals the exotic.

I sampled the limited release at the grand opening of the Island Brewing Company’s tasting room and new headquarters. Done in the method of a classic Kolsch-style ale with Czech saaz hops, it goes down super smooth and refreshing with faint notes of honey.

This particular variety is a whimsical deviation from Island Brew’s strong stable of award-winners, including: the Island Blonde, the unfiltered Bavarian Island Weiss, the Brit-inspired Nut Brown Ale, Paradise Pale Ale, Island Pale Ale and the formidable Jubilee Ale. Their beers are true standouts -- and an experience. For the time being, these brews can only be experienced locally. So go there!

Thursday, March 09, 2006

Wednesday Round-Up

Yiipppeee ... this week's Food & Dining Section is out!
Here's my filter of what you need to know:

New York Times
+ Trader Joe's in Union Square. Now there's really NO excuse for me not to be living back in NYC.
+ Les Dames du Boeuf: Mid-Century maitrons with discerning palettes and a taste for non-trendy nostalgia. What a great club!
+ RECIPE: Duck and Andouille Étoufee (NOT Emeril). One New Orleans chef's variation on a roux.
+ RECIPE: Warm Feta Salad with Ouzo Vinaigrette. Sounds yummy and features my favorite winter root, fennel.
+ VIDEO: Spiced Winter Ribs (cooked indoors). Here's the RECIPE in case you're video challenged.

Los Angeles Times
A bit paltry this week.
+ Here's an article championing Celery (zzzzzzzzzz). Recipes for Cream of Celery Soup, Dungeness Crab with Celery Salad, and Daniel Boulud's Celery Duo within.

Seattle Times
Some Pizza recipes, if you please. Including West Coast White Pizza, Barbecued Chicken and Cheddar Pizza, and Portobella Mushroom, Green Onion, Pesto and Fontina Pizza. Chacun a son gout.

San Francisco Chronicle
+ Hey, I'm into Fritters, too! A sampler of high-class Croquettes, featuring Celery (it's really on a west-coast tear this week) Root and Potato Croquettes, Lentil Croquettes rolled in Pumpkin Seeds, Shrimp & Lemon Croquettes, Chicken-Almond Croquettes, Braised Beef Croquettes with Cornichons & Capers.

+ The exquisite and involved Bella Noche Cocktail from Hawthorne Lane restaurant. Kumquat and Blood Orange infused vodka, Blood Orange syrup, Nocino della Cristina Walnut Liqueur. Mmmmm, blood oranges ... winter never had it so good.

Tuesday, March 07, 2006

Restaurant Review HAIKU:
Sandwiches by the Sea
Palm Beach, FL

paper thin cold cuts
really do make a difference
number one hoagie

Sandwiches by the Sea
363 S. County Road
Palm Beach, FL 33480

Saint Mario & The Sage-Skate Caper


Each culinary endeavor I undertake is performed beneath the benevolent and forgiving gaze of my patron saint Mario. Brett painted the above likeness of chef Mario Batali from the image on a spaghetti sauce jar as a birthday gift. For me it's not unlike a Petrarch/Laura scenario applied to the exercise of my nightly supper.

We love Mario for his passion, knowledge and accessability. Not to mention his magnanamous nature and eloquence. And he's a neighborhood regular who always (or usually) has time for his other neighbors.

One day at the Union Square Greenmarket (Farmer's Market) in NYC's Greenwich Village, I encountered fragrant and bountiful bouquets of Sage and decided THAT ingredient was to be the foundation of my dinner. It was a very special night because Brett and I were going to Radio City Music Hall to see Bjork perform -- a first for both of us. (He's even more reverential of Bjork than I am of Mario, but we all know his worship treads into the most secular of desires.) So it HAD to be seductively scrumptious.

My first thought: a FISH DISH! But I was stumped by the variety and method.

Enter Mario, deftfully snatching up green produce beside me. I turned to him and asked, "Mario! If you could cook any fish dish that includes Sage -- what kind of fish would it be?"

Mario contemplated this for exactly four seconds and rebounded, "Why, Skate Wing of course! It's a classic bistro dish! Just cook the Skate Wing in butter, throw in the Sage leaves, let the butter brown then finish it off with some Capers and a squeeze of Lemon. Perfection."

It sounded delicious to me and I had never tried to cook Skate Wing before -- an even more tantalizing challenge!
I thanked Mario heartily and merrily hopped on my way to Dean & Deluca to complete my mission.

I spotted the Skate Wing straight away in D&Ds fresh fish display. I ordered one pound of the Skate Wing, when the luxury fishmonger delivered the blow:

"Well, the only problem is that this Skate Wing isn't filleted. The guy who fillets the Skate Wing won't be in until tomorrow at 10 AM."

Not satisfied, I couldn't help but insist in rapid fire, "Am I not standing in Dean & Deluca?? Are you not the fish guy?? Why can't you fillet the Skate Wing?... Can I give it a try at home if you tell me how?"

"Umm ... sorry lady, but I've worked here for 3 years and even I can't fillet a Skate Wing. The bones are really small and intricate." (ED note: Liar.)

Deflated does not even approach how I felt. My dreams of Mario's Skate Wing were going up in smoke before my eyes. I was running out of time to get the ingredients and make dinner before we had to head uptown for Bjork, so I knew I had to accept defeat and make due.

I headed to the fresh ravioli section and bought the most obvious accompaniment to a brown butter and sage sauce: Butternut Squash Ravioli. Yes, Mario has a nice recipe for that dish, too, but it's just not the same as a recipe relayed to you in the oral tradition by a master chef.
Bjork won that night.

RECIPE
Skate Wing, Classic Bistro Style (According to Mario Batali, interpreted by me)
2 Skate wings, filleted
1 Stick butter
10 Sage leaves
1 Tbsp. Capers
1/2 Lemon juiced

Melt butter in a large 10 or 12 inch skillet. Add Sage leaves and cook 2 minutes. Add cleaned Skate Wing season with salt and pepper. Saute on medium high heat for 2-3 minutes per side or until opaque. Move Skate Wings to a plate and turn up the heat til the butter is browned. Add caper & squeeze of lemon juice. Cook until sauce is reduced, about 2 minutes. Pour sauce over Skate Wings and serve.

Wednesday, February 22, 2006

Fish Cooked in Sea Water

On a recent trip to the Yucatan peninsula, I happened upon a superb rendition of a semi-poached fish dish. It’s about as simple as it gets: poaching the fish in its native seawater, but the results are a gorgeously plump, succulent and meltaway fish. Alessandro, Genoan chef and co-owner of Posada Margherita explained the cooking method:

“You cook the fresh snapper in olive oil with whole cloves of garlic, and when the olive oil gets very hot – but not hot enough to burn the garlic -- you put in one glass (wine glass?) of seawater, the juice of one lemon, then toss in fresh chopped tomatoes and and cover until the fish is cooked through.”

I considered filling a plastic water bottle with the Carribean’s finest to recreate the magic, but decided against it (after recalling a sour memory this summer of taking a pre-emptive swig from a bottle full of Rocky Mountain lake water before the purification tablets had run their course, ewww.) Instead, I recreated “seawater” by diluting my Fauchon “Sel de Mer” in boiling water: 3 Tbsp. per 1 cup of water. Another option is plain Sel Gris, which has a high content of sea minerals.

However, you can’t discount using a snapper that’s been freshly snatched from its seawater to achieve the original dish’s level of outrageous deliciousness.

RECIPE
Fish Cooked in Sea Water (As recounted by Alessandro and interpreted by me)
1/3 c. Olive oil
1 lb Fresh Snapper fillet
8 Whole garlic cloves
1 Wine glass of "seawater" (see below)
2-3 Fresh plum tomatoes, seeded & chopped
Juice of 1 lemon

Boil water and dissolve 1 Tbsp. of Sel de Mer or Sel Gris in 1 cup of hot water. Set aside. Heat the olive oil in a skillet. Clean the snapper and pat dry. Season lightly with pepper. Add garlic cloves to the oil in pan & swirl around to seaons olive oil cook for 1 minute on medium to high heat. Add the snapper, cook 3-4 minutes while the oil continues to get very hot, but the garlic cloves do not burn. Add the 1 cup of faux seawater, juice of lemon, chopped tomatoes. Reduce heat to medium and cover. Cook unti snapper is opaque throughout.