Talk Soup

The 6th Annual Soupsköl in Aspen, CO, held much promise for steamy cauldrons bubbling over with new flavors as more than 25 local restaurants participated in the competition, but instead we were served up multiple renditions of fowl chowders, tortilla soups, and bisques from the sea. Not to mention the very long lines. I typically have a high threshold for these kinds of events, but even I bailed after 10 dixie-cup sips in more than an hour's time, and constant elbow-bumping with the alpine elite.

It wouldn't be Aspen if we didn't spot a few soup enthusiasts sporting what we will affectionately call the Western douchebag look. You know the type (or maybe you don't) -- the beefy and tan, monied mountaineer in a roughed-up cowboy hat with a floor length mink coat and ostrich skin cowboy boots. It's probably the closest we'll see to a public soup kitchen (the original concept for the event, btw) for recession-era financiers.



One soup standout worth mentioning was the Lobster Hot Chocolate from the restaurant Social. Their lobster bisque variation was the most adventurous flavor pairing, heavy on the cocoa and garnished with a cream froth and finely chopped chives.

The reigning champ, chef Clark Church of Garnish café, won again for the third year in a row with his rendition of New England-style clam chowder. Clark's chowder is more brothy in consistency, but dense with flavor and packs an extra spice kick, which he revealed is owed to "good ol' black pepper."

Christmas 2008 Dinner in Los Angeles

Not Your Grandma's Brittle

'Tis the season for confections of all kinds, but let me turn you on to the most delectable ones I've come across this year. Echo Park-based chef Max Lesser updates the classic holiday peanut brittle with an artisinal hand and high-quality ingredients. His brittle branches out into new flavor territory such as Indian Curry and Pistachio; Cocoa Nib, Coffee Bean & Pecan; Chai Tea and Cashew (my personal favorite); New Mexico Chili and Pumpkin Seed; and Fleur de Sel and Peanut.

Max raises the bar and the results are delicious! If you're dying to try it, visit Morning Glory Confections on the web, or if in Silverlake, stop by the Cheese Shop on Sunset where they carry the locally made brittle.

Peck Nabs Brooklyn "Casserole King" Title With Cauliflower Clincher

Brooklyn is home to many, but there's only one King of Casseroles, and his name is Theodore Peck. On Monday evening in a heated competition, Peck took first place among 28 other casserole contestants in the fourth annual matchup of culinary grit.

EQ caught up with his highness to learn of the savory taste of victory -- and get the winning recipe for Peck's cauliflower, purple potato and bacon casserole.

EQ: When you heard the word "casserole" what was the first thing that popped into your mind?

Ted: Honestly I thought mushroom soup and cheese. You know, like most people try to put as much garbage like mushroom soup and cheese into a casserole. I thought, wow, there's gotta be a way to make it lighter. Casseroles don't need to feel heavy. So I decided to enter the competition with that goal in mind.

EQ: Was there any kind of cuisine or school of cooking in your approach to the casserole?

Ted: Seasonal, as you can imagine someone coming from the school of Dan Barber. I thought to myself, if Dan Barber made a casserole this is what it would be like. There's a different way of thinking about it when you are in a professional kitchen. So then I considered what I've been seeing at the farmer's maket. I've been eating a lot of cauliflower lately -- really digging it -- so I thought: This is it.

EQ: Were there any childhood casserole memories that inspired you?

Ted: What a charming question. I think a lot of people from the mid-west might have that, but I'm from New York, so no. The closest childhood memory I have to a casserole is potato dauphinois (said with tongue firmly in cheek and a French accent). It's sad, but it's actually true.

EQ: What was your reaction when you heard your name called out as the winner?

Ted: I never won anything in my life except for this contest. I think I almost went into cardiac arrest.

EQ: If you were invited to contend in the Iron Chef "casserole" battle, which Iron Chef would you challenge and how do you think you'd fare against him/her?

Ted: If I had to go into a Battle Royale, I think I could kick Bobby Flay's ass. Because I think Bobby Flay would make some mayonnaise-y chipotle casserole. Tostada, cumin, queso fresco -- it would be so easy to predict exactly what he would make. Basically, I think he'd be a dead man. He should just stay at home.

EQ: What's next for the Casserole King of Brooklyn?

Ted: You gotta take it one casserole at a time. But I will tell you this much: I see many culinary competitions out there in the future. I will happily enter into the Fondue Slam -- actually, Fondue Take-down -- in two weeks.


+ RECIPE
Caulifornication Casserole
by Theodore Peck

3 to 4 heads Cauliflower (Purple, Cheddar, or Regular)
2 ½ Cups Garlic Cloves, trimmed
1 ½ Cups Olive Oil
1 Lbs Bacon, cut into lardoons
4-6 ea Potatoes, waxy varieties
6 T Parsley, chopped
3 Cups Milk, whole
4 Sprigs Thyme
1 ea Apple, peeled, diced
1 T Honey
1 tsp Nutmeg, fresh grated
2 T Butter
1 to 2 Cups Shredded Cheese, like gruyer
½ Cup Shredded Parmesan
1 Cup Fried Onions
2 Cups Panko Crumbs
2 Cups Phyllo, shredded

Pre-heat oven to 350 and butter your Pyrex dish. Cut Cauliflower into small florets, trimmed of stems and place in large bowl. Take ½ Cup of garlic and slice lengthwise in half.
Place a generous cup of olive oil in a pan with the sliced garlic and heat over a low to medium-low heat until the garlic starts to brown (15 – 20 min).
With slotted spoon, remove garlic from oil (reserve the oil for use in topping) and place in the bowl with Cauliflower along with a couple of tablespoons of garlic oil, splashes of olive oil, kosher salt and pepper, toss, and let sit while you do some other stuff.

Slice the potatoes on a mandolin, not too thin, toss with oil and salt and scallop layer the bottom of your dish. Place in the oven till the potatoes are slightly crisp and brown on top.
Then place the cauliflower in a single layer on a sheet tray, use two if necessary, and roast in the oven until there is some browning, and some moisture has evaporated.

Fry bacon until almost crisp and drain.

To make the garlic cream: Place two cups of garlic cloves in a pot and cover in cold water and bring up to a simmer. Strain the garlic, return it to the pot and cover again in cold water bring to simmer and strain. Strain the garlic, return it to the pot, add the milk, apple, thyme, nutmeg, salt & pepper and bring to a simmer. Let it cool, remove the thyme sprig, and place the rest into a blender along with honey and butter, make a puree…

In large bowl combine the cauliflower, bacon, 3T parsley.

In a large saucepan, heat the garlic puree, add 1T butter, and whisk in 1-2 cups of shredded cheese until smooth and melted. Add the puree to the bowl with the cauliflower and stuff, and mix well. Place the mix into the Pyrex on top of the potatoes. Press the mix into the Pyrex using a spatula.

For the recipe that never ends: Now for the topping. Heat a pan and add 3 T garlic oil, two cups panko crumbs, 1T parsley, and salt. Toss and heat until toasted. Place in a bowl with the fried onions. Heat the pan again add 3T garlic oil, the phyllo, parsley, salt and toss until toasted. Place into the bowl. When the bowl cools, add ½ cup parmesean and toss. Press onto the casserole.

Bake at 350 until crust browns and there is some bubblin’.

Chez Panisse + Dosa in Downtown LA

At the intersection of food and fashion this weekend were creations celebrating the local and artisinal alike. Housed in the airy loft space of fashion and housewares label, Dosa, artist/designer Christina Kim co-hosted an afternoon event with chef Alice Waters to benefit the Chez Panisse Foundation's Edible Schoolyard project.

Dosa showcased its discounted fall/winter "Casa Malatesta Franzini" traveler collection -- inspired by Kim's recent journeys and interaction with far-flung traditional cultures and craftsmanship -- while Waters held court and catered the party, bringing her trademark sustainable, local, and organic cuisine to a captive audience of Angelenos. It was a simple but visually stunning marriage of parallel approaches and philosophies to Waters and Kim's respective arts.



A small staff from Chez Panisse crafted an autumnal bounty gathered from local farmers' markets here on Saturday in Santa Monica and on Sunday in Hollywood. They staged a delectable still life of persimmons, pomegranates, apples, almonds, grapes, plums, and meyer lemons, plus a plate of fresh-pickled veggies including fennel, carrots, and radishes.

Chez Panisse servers emerged from the open kitchen with platters of rich farmer-fresh egg salad sandwiches, tangy watercress and cucumber sandwiches, and savory flat-pressed paninis with prosciutto, arugula and a fresh mozzarella made by a local gentleman who attended the event. A cleansing mint tea was offered to soothe and wash down the small bites.



The only imports on the menu were the roasted almonds from Chez Panisse's local provider in Berkeley, CA, reported the restaurant's general manager Jennifer Sherman, and the spectacular Fleur de la Terre cheese from Traders Point Creamery in Zionsville, IN. Sherman lauded the Mid-Western diary's sustainable practices and 100% organic milk from grass-fed cows (no grain whatsoever), which produces a heavenly raw-milk, natural rind cheese.

For the eco-minded and taste-conscious, the event was not to be missed. Not to mention a chance to chat with the affable revolutionary and inspiration to many market-to-table cooks, chef Alice Waters.

- by Jennifer Eno

Election Night Nibbles

Since nervously gnawing on our fingernails could only get us so far, I decided to whip up some election night hors d'oeuvres for our viewing party. Working with only what was already on-hand, I drummed up a spontaneous stuffed mushroom concoction. The results were well received and seem worth noting, so here goes:

+ RECIPE
"Yes We Can" Stuffed Mushrooms With Scallops

12-15 whole baby Portobello or Crimini mushroom caps
Canola oil
8-10 large scallops, diced
a pinch of dried red chili pepper flakes
1 T fresh ginger, minced
2 cloves garlic, minced
3 scallions, thinly slivered
1-1/2 c. fresh spinach, finely chopped
1/4 c. Mirin wine
Dash of soy sauce

Clean the mushrooms with a damp paper towel and trim the stems and cap area so it's primed for stuffing. Place mushroom caps in a glass Pyrex dish and drizzle with Canola oil, toss until they are lightly coated. Place in broiler to pre-cook for 5-7 minutes, just until they start to release a little liquid. Remove from broiler.

In a wok or skillet over medium heat, place 2 tablespoons of Canola oil and a pinch of red pepper flakes. Wait for oil to heat up and red chili flakes to begin to infuse the oil, then add ginger, garlic, scallions, gently stirring constantly with spatula for 1-2 minutes. Add diced scallops and continue to cook, gently stirring constantly until they start to turn opaque, 1-2 minutes. Then add spinach, cook stirring for 1 minute. Add Mirin wine and dash of soy, increase heat a little to cook wine off quickly until a loose reduced sauce remains, 3 minutes. Remove from heat.

Use a teaspoon to place scallop stuffing mixture into partially cooked mushroom caps -- put enough so the cap is heaping with the stuffing. At this point you could sprinkle the top with Panko breadcrumbs, but I didn't have any.

Place Pyrex dish with stuffed mushrooms in preheated 350 degree oven for 5-7 minutes more to reheat. Shout "YES! OBAMAAAAAAAA!!" and serve.

Also on the finger food menu that night:
+ Terikayi Tri-Tip
+ Roasted Asparagus Spears with Ponzu sauce

+ LIBATION
Blue-State-tinis
3 oz. Vodka
1 oz. Blue Curacao

Chill, stir, pour into martini glass. Watch the red states turn blue!

Desperate Times Call for More Frugal Ingredients

Time to save those truffle shavings for another day. Tonight we're gonna menu plan like it's 1929! Here are my Top 5 austerity budget meals.


1. Tomato Bread Soup
Don't let that day old baguette go to waste. Also, it's still high season for tomatoes at the farmers' markets here in the Southland.

2. Arroz con Pollo
This dish makes great use of the cheaper (and tastier) cuts of chicken: thighs and legs.

3. Pasta with Tuna, White Bean, Arugula
Might be a bit of a stretch given the arugula factor, but hopefully you can find a bunch for $2.00 or less at your farmer's market.
Note: Just add a can of cannelli beans when the recipe calls for adding the tuna.

4. Red Snapper Livornese
I recently found great quality snapper fillets at our local fishmongers, Santa Monica Seafood and Fish King in Glendale, CA, for around $7.99/pound. Capers and olives are always on hand in my fridge or pantry.

5. Spaghetti Aglio, Olio e Peperoncino
A deliciously minimal dish that brings big returns on flavor, if properly executed. Some believe this dish to be the benchmark of a cook's competency in Italian cuisine.

+ RECIPE
5 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
3 cloves garlic, peeled and left whole
1 peperoncino (dried red chili pepper), seeded and torn into small pieces
1 tablespoon fresh flat-leaf Italian parsley, chopped
12 ounces spaghetti
freshly grated Parmesan cheese

Heat the oil in a small pan, add the garlic and chili and cook over low heat for a few minutes until the garlic is golden brown. Season lightly with salt, remove the pan from the heat and add the parsley. Cook the spaghetti in a large pot of salted, boiling water until al dente, then drain, toss with the garlic and chile oil.

Tell us about your favorite financial meltdown meals in Comments.

Looking for Lobster Rolls

On our recent trip to Montauk, Long Island, NY, the local East-Enders led us to the Chowder House for what they consider to be the best lobster roll in Montauk.

What makes for a number one lobster roll? In my opinion, scant mayo is key -- only for loosely binding nearly a pound of sweet succulent lobster meat. Then just a touch of celery, parsley and perhaps a squeeze of lemon. Best served at room temperature with a crisp cool leaf of romaine lettuce.

The roll needn't be fancy. A classic hotdog bun works far better than more gourmet interpretations such as toasted brioche rolls.

West Lake Chowder House
352 West Lake Drive
Montauk, NY
(631) 668-6252

Ad Hoc Inspiration

Whenever I would head over to the Union Square Greenmarket in NYC, I'd first stop at Union Square Café to check out their menu for the latest seasonal ingredients and preparations. Armed with inspiration, I'd then tackle the farmers' produce stands.

Now that I live in LA, my strategy must come from a different source. Lucky for me, Thomas Keller's Ad Hoc Restaurant in Yountville, CA, recently started sending out their daily menu to email subscribers. Ad Hoc serves a daily single prix fixe menu of four courses featuring standout seasonal ingredients -- sometimes from the French Laundry garden itself.

Ad hoc's family-style approach makes for more straightforward (yet still sublime) dishes from Keller's arsenal. Great ideas abound -- but how you go about executing them is up to you.

Wild Rocky Mountain Asparagus

On a recent trek to the Harvey Gap Reservoir in Silt, Colorado, my father-in-law found himself in a patch of wild asparagus. Naturally, it ended up on the dinner table that night. His method: steamed and served with lemon butter.

As it's high season for this vegetable, the NYTimes.com recently posted its compendium of asparagus recipes. One of my favorites is the asparagus risotto from Mark Bittman in 2007.

I Want Scandi

My latest guilty TV pleasure is New Scandinavian Cooking on local SoCal PBS affiliate KLCS. In episodes titled "Food Where the Lilacs Bloom," "Seabed Soil," and "The Lure of the Mountain," Danish chef Claus Meyer transports us to Denmark on his local ingredient purveying adventures. He plucks just-ripe fruit off treetops and grabs still-slithering eels out of a fishmongers' net with his big bare hands boatside from his sea kayak. It is, in a word, awesome.

Chef Claus is passionate and brutal in his delivery when telling his audience how to cook something -- especially when talking about "apple must" or commanding us to "Skin," "Scrub" or "Slice." His stripped down recipes simply instruct: "This is how you do it...." For me, the novelty of his approach is endlessly entertaining.

Once he seeks out the necessary ingredients, Claus wastes no time and immediately assembles an IKEA-esque cooking station on location -- be it on the seashore among the craggy rocks or in the midst of an orchard, marshlands or open meadow -- and begins to prepare his meal. It's like the "man in the wild" of Werner Herzog's Grizzly Man meets the stark storytelling (and production values) found in a Lars Von Trier Dogme film. At the same, New Scandinavian Cooking leaves me reeling from peals of laughter over Chef Claus' uber dry cooking-related jokes. Chef Claus is truly a breath of fresh air from the rampant Rachel Ray-ification of cooking shows.

RECIPES

+ Shrimp Sandwiches with Mayonnaise and Dill

+ Halibut with Leeks in Caper Vinaigrette

+ Pot-roasted grouse served in its own sauce with mountain berries

+ Celery root baked in straw and clay on a campfire

+ Apple punch

+ Syllabub with marinated berries and raspberry liquor

Posh Paris: Cocktails at George V

As we're entering the height of the holiday season, lavish cocktails in outrageous settings are in order. In Paris, there are many options for this. The Four Seasons' Hotel George V is one such place.

The bar at George V is opulent but comfortable with a warm cozy fireplace and plush intimate seating. There are a number of specialty cocktails on the menu -- and the table-side martini-shaking is a fierce ritual of pouring precision.

Luckily, they offer equally chic cocktails sans alcool, for the pregnant or non-partaking crowd. Pictured above, the Lucky Star -- cranberry juice, soda water, fresh mint, strawberries and raspberries and a Pinot Noir from Burgundy.

HOLIDAY CHEER AT GEORGE V

Royal Couscous

Tonight we were Moroccan princes -- or at least feasted like ones.

On the recommendation of the kind folk at George V, we venture a short distance from the Arc de Triomphe (Charles de Gaulle Etoile) into the 17th arrondissement to the restaurant Timgad. We enter into an ornate interior with stark white lattice-work walls, a fountain surrounded by a profusion of plants and flowers, and regal red carpets. The tuxedoed staff are charged with a sense of occasion and urgency.

We begin with an arrangement of spicy and pickled Moroccan mezze -- carrots scented with cumin, lemon, coriander; piquante green olives; oil-cured black olives; pickled cauliflower, carrots, peppers; and toasted hazelnuts. This was served with a round load of whole wheat bread.



The menu consists of a variety of couscous, tagines and grilled meats. We opt for Couscous Merguez and Tagine de poulet fermier aux olives et citrons confits.

Timgad's presentation of couscous is something of a spectacle. First the couscous is served from a large decorative platter into individual serving bowls. The server takes the backside of the oversized serving spoon to form a deep depression in the couscous mound. Then they arrive with a large terracotta pot of stewed zucchini, carrots, turnips and scoop them into the well, making sure to provide ample sauce. Next come the garnishes: chickpeas in a sauce, plump golden raisins and Harissa sauce. The couscous itself is incredibly light, fluffy and perfectly salted; the vegetables cut in large portions are plumped with flavor from the broth.

The merguez is served on the side. We realize up until this point, we have only eaten charred, overcooked merguez. Timgad's is a completely different -- cooked with dry heat in a wood-burning oven, it remains tender and juicy, bringing life the lamb sausage's delicate spices and mint. The food is simple, but a revelation.



Our tagine took on an intense yellow color from the spices -- matching the vivid level of flavor. A dreamy succulent chicken topped with onions, black olives and half of a preserved lemon.

We should note, this is an enormous amount of food for two people, so dessert was out of the question. Though we couldn't refuse a service of famous Moroccan mint tea.

Eat a Crepe (or Two)

In Paris, crepes are a staple. We found our first crepe destination, Des Crepes et des Cailles, on a charming small street in the La Butte Aux Cailles area (13eme). Translated as "hill of the quails," La Butte Aux Cailles is like a little village unto itself and offers an authentic experience of an older Parisian neighborhood.

The restaurant is small and sweet with little flourish except a maritime theme. Best to keep it simple. We chose:

Complet: Ham, cheese, egg

La Raclette: Raclette cheese, potatoes

Nutella: The delicious hazelnut spread (and nothing else)

Watch the pros compose a crepe:

Vive La Froth

BLANQUETTE DE VEAU "COMME A LA PAINBLANC"

For our first dining experience in Paris, we decide to seek out a local restaurant in the 13th. L'Ourcine comes recommended by Conde Nast Traveler, Time Out and Zagat alike for its “Basque and Bernais classics.”

The sober interior with an open view of the kitchen tells us the focus is on the food. The menu (à 30 Euros) offers a choice of three courses, ranging from veloutés, ravioli, composed salads to classic entrées and updated desserts.

To start, we are offered a canapé of Mousse aux poireaux (Leek Mousse) -- a highly aerated, savory verdant cloud topped with well-oiled croutons. This leaves our lips smacking with salty goodness, ready for more.

Next arrives the appetizer course. I choose something completely foreign to me -- bulots in a curry rémoulade with granny smith apples, chestnuts, topped with microgreens (Rémoulade de bulots au curry, pommes granny smith, marrons). I continue to ask myself, what the hell is a boulot, guessing it is something between a mussel and an escargot. The gentle creamy curry and tart apples envelop the meaty little boulots with subtle piquante flavor.

Later, I spot boulots at an open-air market and learn they are whelk (which doesn't do much to clear things up) -- an ambiguous mollusk.


With Brett’s ravioli appetizer, we begin to detect a theme: foamy froth. The Raviolés d’araignée de mer, émulsion crémeuse à citronelle come bathed in a fine foam emulsion. Brothy and buttery, the fresh seafood ravioli may have suffered from the foam, as it left a watery feel in the mouth.

For the mains, I go straight to la tradition: Blanquette de Veau. The chef offers a version from his native village of Painblanc in Burgundy (Traditionelle Blanquette de Veau, trompettes de la mort “comme à la Painblanc”). The dish’s highlights are a tie between the powerful triumverate of succulent stewed veal, aromatic vegetables (carrots, leeks, crosnes, parsnips) and insanely flavorful mushrooms (champignons de Paris and trompettes de la mort). Again, the stew sits in a light broth enhanced with foam, which works quite well this time, distinguishing it from the heavier cream-based blanquettes I’ve had in the past. Trompettes de la mort qualify as some of the most exotic mushrooms I’ve ever tasted - when cooked they are dark like hijiki with a deep earthy, salty flavor.


Brett follows with another traditional dish: Noix de Saint Jacques rotiés en coquille au beurre persille, endives meunières (roasted scallops in a parsley butter with endives meunières. This dish is straight-up good. The chef achieves an exceptional texture with the sweet scallops that is reminiscent of lobster. A kiss of foam and oily croutons top this dish.


Finally, dessert: Bouchon de chocolat guanaja, coeur coulant, sorbet à l’amande. Our hearts melt away in this oversized timbale of bittersweet chocolate cake. A beautiful quenelle of homemade almond sorbet cools our jets.

This is a fine start to our séjour à Paris.

Surprising Pizza Topping Success Story

PHOTO BY DANIEL TA

Free pizza lunches at work are always a boon. Fun prizes make it even better. But being introduced to new flavors that I would never think of combining -- and love -- that's just unheard of.

Today's inspired combo:

sausage
jalapeno
pineapple

The result is something of a spicy Creole influence with a sweet Southern kick. CBS.com's Craig Hibbard is the brainchild of the winning combo and Tomato Pie in Los Angeles crafted the pie.

I can feel my NYC street cred diminishing as I type. Although, one could easily envision this pizza at Two Boots. We'll call it: The Tennesee Williams.

Nuts and Fate

The open roads of California beckon those with a love for road tripping. Long, empty stretches still exist where you can cruise at top speed for miles, seeing nothing but the lay of the land to the horizon.

One particularly dusty and flat portion through the San Joaquin Valley on CA Route 46 happens to be home to the almond and pistachio producing capital of the world. About 90 miles inland from Cambria (the bottom of the Big Sur coastline) heading eastward, you approach what looks like an abandoned service station near the town of Lost Hills, CA. This ramshackle gem is Blackwell's Corner, a small shop with a large variety of local nuts in a range of custom flavors. Blackwell's is the only retail outlet in the area where more than a million pounds of nuts are distributed worldwide daily.

Blackwell's Corner's other claim to fame places it squarely in America's pop-culture firmament: The is the site where James Dean made his last stop before his ill-fated Porsche crash in 1955.

High winds, dust devils, tumbleweeds and a large free-standing painted mural of James Dean greet you as you step out of the car. Inside, Blackwell's has a general store vibe selling nuts, sauces, salsas, olives, James Dean memorabilia and tchotchkes galore. The almonds and pistachios are the highlights, though, available raw, roasted and specially seasoned in chili lime, garlic onion, cinnamon honey, cappucino, raspberry honey, butter toffee, hot & spicy, and orange honey flavors to name a few. Their prices are pretty good at $6.89/pound for almonds.

If you wish to taste Blackwell's nuts yourself, but don't have a California road trip planned, visit their website to have them shipped to your door.

New Fish Taco on the Block

Fish tacos top the list of my favorite local SoCal eats. Cheap, filling, and super-tasty, what's not to love? So when a new addition to the Hillhurst Avenue food corridor in Los Feliz popped up claiming the name "The Best Fish Taco in Ensenada" -- I was so there.

For years, my go-to has been 7 Seas (7 Mares) on Sunset Boulevard in Silverlake, but lately their holy trinity of fish, batter and slaw struggles for the right balance. It's high time to try a new rendition.

Set back from the street on a corner lot, BFTIE isn't easy to spot. The signage and location is further obscured by swaying palapa fronds and random junkers in the parking lot they share with the body shop next door.

Upon entrance, the joint feels like a startup trying to work out the kinks in its spacious configuration. The menu above the counter offers three basic options: Fish Taco $1.50, Shrimp Taco $2.00, Drinks $1.00.

With such simplicity, you'd think this would be the quickest, easiest meal, this side of the golden arches. But not so! The Best Fish Taco in Ensenada has rules, thanks to Joseph, the owner/guru.

First off, to ensure the highest quality of your fish or shrimp taco, ordering multiple tacos is discouraged.

"We do 'em one at a time here... Have a seat. It'll be the best fish taco you've ever had," Joseph tells us.

The idea: you're served up freshly cooked fish or shrimp plucked from the batter bowl, into the frying oil, and onto the white corn tortilla warming on the griddle. You walk over to the fixins bar for finely julienned cabbage slaw, cool crema, avocado sauce and your choice of salsas from mild pico de gallo, medium salsa roja to hot mango salsa. The radish relish is their secret weapon -- its tart, tangy zing brings new taco dimension.

It works. This way the integrity of each taco is in tact -- its crisp lightly battered seafood, firm tortilla, slaw and sauces meld into a winning combination. We learn BFTIE's fish of choice is Basa, a farm-raised freshwater whitefish that has a rich texture comparable to Chilean sea bass. Joseph, who worked in the commercial fish industry for years, clearly did his research.

Next, we witness two firemen walk in and order a slew of tacos to go.

"To go?" Joseph questioned, having none of it, "Fish tacos don't travel, man."

The firemen fall into line, having one taco at a time seated, and then returning to the counter to order the next one. Talk about an indicator of Joseph's level of fish taco seriousness -- not many have the nerve to deny the local firemen food to go. Hence, The Best Fish Taco in Ensenada lives up to its name.

The Best Fish Taco in Ensenada
1650 N Hillhurst Ave
Los Angeles, CA 90189

More Reviews

Opening Day at Osteria Mozza

It's no secret that I'm a pilgrim to chef Mario Batali's mecca. But even I was surprised to be the first patron to cross Osteria Mozza's threshold on opening day.

Upon entering, the excitement and anticipation is palpable, as if everyone snapped into place moments before. All eyes are on the "walk-ins" as we approach the dazzling white marble Mozzarella bar at 5:45 pm. The dapperly appointed servers at attention, eager chefs at the bar, a smiling chef Nancy Silverton, and a flushed pony-tailed chef Mario Batali (sporting a pink shirt and orange crocs) all track our first reactions.

The space feels sophisticated and welcoming, with an expanse of silvery sage blue walls up to vast airy ceilings. Mario recalls the feeling you get in Grand Central Station, amidst all the hustle-and-bustle -- which this restaurant is sure to see -- when you look up and sense the grandiosity of the space as it absorbs the noise around you.

Immediately, we're greeted with a Mozzarella rollatini with capers, pesto, tomatoes and olives, and we celebrate our good fortune with a glass of Prosecco. The late afternoon sun ambiently enhances the crystal glasses, baroque wine decanters, gleaming silver, and clean white linens that dot the setting.


The menu offers a range of Antipasti, specialties from the Mozzarella bar, Primi, Secondi and Contorni inspired by the Bologna region in Italy. To start, we select Prosciutto di Parma and melon with extra virgin olive oil. The Antipasti is composed before our eyes. The melon is snatched from one of the many eclectic still-life-esque bowls on top of the counter. On the back counter of the mozzarella bar sits the Osteria's "prestige piece" -- a glorious fire engine red antique Berkel deli meat slicer, loaded with a gorgeous leg of prosciutto and primed for thin slicing.


The meltaway proscuitto and drippingly succulent sweet melon combination is a dream. We learn the melons were sourced on Wednesday at the Santa Monica Farmers' Market and are of the Charentais variety.

Our next two dishes are specialties from the Mozzarella bar and both champion Burrata cheese. With renowned chef Nancy Silverton in command of her celebrated station, we know we're in store for some incredible compositions.

The Burricotti, braised artichokes, pine nuts, currants and mint pesto on grilled bread is stunning in terms of its flowery presentation and multidimensional taste.

Oozing with richness, the Burrata with asparagus, hazelnuts, brown butter and guanciale on grilled bread sends waves of creamy nutty troughs and crisp salty crests.


For the Primi course, our party-of-three splits two classic pastas from Mario's arsenal: Orechiette with sausage and Swiss chard, and Agnolotti, burro e salvia. Both are sublime fresh pastas. The perfect flavor balance and texture of the Orechiette -- finished with a trail of breadcrumbs -- trips us all out to the moon and back. This may be the best rendition of this pasta we've ever tasted.

The Agnolotti defines decadence with its silken filling of chicken, pancetta, and mortadella spiked with nutmeg in a substantial saged-scented butter sauce. (Note: the pasta portions seen in our photos have been split three ways -- they are normally much larger.)


Local Santa Barbara Spot Prawns are standouts on the Secondi menu. They arrive whole in an outrageous "al diovolo" sauce that we attempt to break down, crowned with shaved scallions. Turns out it's an amazingly fresh and piquant combination of garlic, white wine, red Fresno chiles, passato di pomodoro, and basil.


After stammering over braised or grilled beef, we opt for the Grilled Beef Tagliatta, rucola and Parmigiano with aceto balsamic. Such high quality ingredients shine here, especially the incredibly tender and flavorful beef.

Dinner at the Mozzarella bar is an engaging and exciting scene. If you are enthralled by the glory of food preparation, then I highly recommend sitting here in the center of the action.

We're happy that Mario imported Babbo's signature rockin' mix for the Osteria soundtrack, with the likes of Elvis Costello, Astrid & Bebel Gilberto, REM, Coldplay, and Neil Young. The music matches the buzzy upbeat vibe.

Honestly, what more could you ask for in a Los Angeles Osteria? And by partnering with chef Nancy Silverton, team Batali and Bastianich ensure authenticity with the best of LA's local purveyors and ingredients.
PHOTOS BY BCR

IN SEASONGreen Garlic Scapes: Culinary Calligraphy

PHOTO BY BCR
GREEN GARLIC SCAPE COURTESY OF SUZANNE GOIN

Today while having lunch at Lucques in LA, EQ asked Chef Suzanne Goin:

Is there a seasonal ingredient from a certain purveyor that you are particularly excited about right now?

Her answer: Green garlic scapes.

If you are unfamiliar with this allium species offshoot, green garlic looks like a leek with a bulb shape at the root end. Just above the premature bulb, a single long curly shoot spikes out with the intention to flower: this is the scape.

The scapes' elegant looping green tendrils tell us they are young and tender -- as they mature, they straighten out and become tougher. Chef Goin compares the texture of the garlic scape to a Chinese long bean. Raw, the garlic flavor is quite pungent; when cooked, the taste is milder, but still distinct.

At yesterday’s farmers market in Santa Monica, CA, Chef Goin was surprised to spot the scapes at the Windrose Farms stand – a purveyor near Paso Robles, CA, that she orders from weekly. At first sight, she exclaimed, “You didn’t tell me that you had these!” In fact, this is the first year Chef Goin has found green garlic scapes in the Los Angeles area farmers markets.

Suzanne’s first brush with a scape was when she worked in Boston. An early seasonal item on the East Coast, she remembers one bleak spring farmers market scene with scant produce save for some freshly dug new potatoes (which were amazing) and these odd green scapes. She immediately experimented with them, and has been cooking with them since when available.

The window for green garlic scapes is only a few weeks, sometime between March and June, depending on what region you live in.

For preparation, Chef Goin recommends snapping the bottoms off where they naturally break -- like you do with asparagus -- and then cutting the shoot on the bias. Sautée the scape slices in butter with water, salt and pepper.

So, exactly what is Chef Goin planning to do with these newly found scapes this week at Lucques? They're appearing on the dinner menu in a dish of Pancetta-Wrapped Salmon on Black Rice with a Sautée of Green Garlic Scapes and Rhubarb. Sounds like a delectable outcome.

As for my plans, I've found the most appetizing and interesting stir-fry shrimp and green garlic recipe, "Goong Pong Gari," on Chez Pim.

Lunch at Lucques
Here are our delicious lunch menu selections:

Me
+ Rutiz farm carrot soup with yogurt, mint and ginger sofrito
+ Clams steamed with white wine and vermouth with fennel, green garlic, spring onions and herbs. Served with toasted bread with a green garlic aioli

Tracey
+ Rutiz farm carrot soup with yogurt, mint and ginger sofrito
+ Slow-cooked albacore salad with white beans, shaved fennel and meyer lemon

Brett
+ Grilled radicchio and endive salad with anchovy, garlic and fried farm egg
+ Grilled Alaskan halibut with farro, green garlic, black olives and kumquat salsa